Morning Climb, First Sport Since Becoming a CPT / Dinosaur Rock; Carson City, NV 4/18

Mid April we finally found time to go do some climbing out at Dinosaur Rock after months of insurrection, pandemic, employment changes, and other life happenings.  We climbed the chossy but classic Dead Man's Rappel, 110FT 5.7, and the 5.8 seen below about half the height.  This was also a great opportunity to catch up with our good friend Melanie.  With our first lead climbing after 6months under our belts we hope to have a trip out to Castle Rock in the near future!

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 5/10 - Size 3/10 - Accessibility 10/10
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Week Long Vacation, World-class Sedimentary Sport / Maple Canyon; Nephi, UT 10/13-14/20

 Mid October Amanda and I took a much needed vacation from work, from covid, from life.  We first drove to Eastern Nevada to camp at Lamoile Canyon and were confronted with a fierce snow storm on the very first night of the trip.  The following day we drove through Elko to get to 6mile Canyon Hot Springs which was a welcome change from the snow, and later that day we continued to Ely Nevada where we found time to do a little bit of rock hunting.  The next day we made the long push from Ely to Nephi UT, but not before stopping at the cowboy coal ovens outside Ely.  We spent two days mid week climbing at Maple Canyon and did over half a dozen routes from 5.9 and below all while breaking in our new 60M 9.3mm Petzl Rope.  The climbing was incredible, mostly jugs but sometimes polished, everything was bolted phenomenally.  We spent two more days hiking around Bryce Canyon before driving back to Nevada.  Towards the end of the trip we got to see a natural wonder called Cathedral Gorge, and one more hot spring called Spencer Hot Springs.  The trip was a blast and almost surreal.  Everything was dirt cheap or free to participate in, even the guide book was rented, everything was outside, and everything was socially distanced!

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 10/10 - Size 10/10 - Accessibility 10/10
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Half Day Climbing, Volcanic Perch South Lake / Castle Rock; Stateline, NV 6/30/20

Late June 2020 I realized I was probably going to survive the apocalypse.  For anyone reading this post out of context between the Coronavirus pandemic and severe civil unrest  in the states, not to mention a second great depression it felt like the apocalypse, so I went rock climbing?  I was invited again by my good friend and fellow coworker Justin Hight to visit Castle Rock.  Castle Rock may very well be my new favorite climbing spot for the Tahoe area, I've been here several times since returning from knee surgery.  We started at the Armory wall on the varied and featured 5.8 called Space Pants.  Next we moved East back toward The Court Jester, a 5.6 slab/jug haul with a solid 5.8 crux mantle move, but really easy movement apart from that.  Court Jester looks incredibly fun from the ground and it does not disappoint, the views are incredible!  I got the lead on both of these climbs which had me feeling good for my first day back.  Last we moved over to the Central Gully onto a thin slab / diheadral called Dragon's Tail, 5.10, which Justin lead I followed.  I thought this route was pretty hard I definitely cheated a little using the massive crack off left to muscle my way up.  We left shortly after drained from the sun but very satisfied.

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 7/10 - Size 7/10 - Accessibility 7/10
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All Day Climbing, Alpine Desert / Pig Rock; Pyramid Lake, NV 12/17/19

Mid December I made a winter pilgrimage out to Pig Rock for my first time back in over 5years.  I was really excited to see this desolate unique spot again and see how well I remembered it.  Also this was my first time climbing with Justin Hight, Mesa Rim Front Desk co-worker and Reno local, so it was great to be with someone that was on a very similar level.  We spent a little over an hour driving out there to find the road was just as tricky as I remember it, do not try this in anything less than dedicated 4x4.  We were at the base by about 10AM with the sun just beginning to show up, we warmed up on Little Sheep Wall in the Contra Canyon, on an unnamed route that is described as "5.7, maybe 5.9, I don't know, weird but fun" 4Bolts 35FT, and yeah, next we climbed a slabby 5.8 all the way to left called Uncle Olly, 4Bolts 35FT.  We agreed Uncle Olly seemed like much better quality movement, could be 5.9 as well it was a little thin, but good moves including a fun little mantle.  We moved our anchor over to Waste of Time, a 35FT 5.10 that was missing bolts, so now its a top rope?  There was a crux section that Justin fumbled through but I managed to send it after about 10minutes of trying the move and down climbing to a rest over and over.

 

Later we hiked to the Contra Towers to discover what was available.  Little did we know ALL the climbing for this section is on the South side of the hill, and naturally we started from the far end of the North side, zig zagged through, then figured shit out.  There are a couple cool 5.10s as well as a stiff thin looking 5.12.  Justin lead a 40FT 5.10 4Bolts, called Tropic Sun that felt pretty hard for both of us, barring all the right beta, we bolt to bolted this route.  Now it was time to head back into Reno before Justin had his shift start at the desk.  We were thoroughly exhausted, being the old man I did not have work this day and instead I went home and went to bed!

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 4/10 - Size 2/10 - Accessibility 1/10
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Afternoon Climbing, Moderate Sport / Castle Rock; South Lake Tahoe, CA 10/24

Late October Amanda and I made a day trip out to Castle Rock above South Lake Tahoe to climb on some super stellar volcanic sport routes.  This was just before our trip to San Diego for the employee exchange program at Mesa Rim, so I wanted to have a good time and avoid any knee pain/over use.  We got to the base around 11AM, temps were comfortable, no snow, routes were in the sun.  We both onsighted a 90FT 5.8, 9Bolts, called Pillage the Village.  The beginning is probably more of 5.6, with some class 5 towards the middle, and a vertical 5.8 finish that you can make harder if you don't have the right beta.  Amanda flashed the route as well.  Next we walked around the corner to a shorter 30FT 5.8, called Space Pants.  The movement on this climb was actually really good, big reaches to good holds, and some tufa like holds.  Space Pants can actually be combined into a chill two pitch climb because it tops out at the base of a couple other routes that make up the Armory Wall.  After a day of sport climbing we returned home to promptly collapse on our bed.

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 7/10 - Size 7/10 - Accessibility 7/10
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Amanda's First Girl's Day / Ballbuster Rock; Incline Village, NV 10/8

Early October Amanda broke away from work to do some climbing with her good friend Melanie Letalik, of Gardnerville, NV.  The girls brought Gilbert along for good measure.  The climbing was all top rope as there are no bolts or proper cracks available.  Afterwards there was sushi to celebrate!

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 2/10 - Size 1/10 - Accessibility 10/10
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Afternoon Climbing, Moderate Sport / Dinosaur Rock; Carson City, NV 9/12

Thursday afternoon 9/12 I drove down to Carson to meet up with my friends Craig Black and Melanie Letalik of Gardnerville, NV. We started by climbing Evolution of Man, 60FT 5bolts 5.8. Evolution of man has a fun engaging crux right at the top that basically amounts to a big blind reach to a jug that is out of your field of vision. We climbed a couple of the routes next to Evolution on top rope and then I lead Dead Man's Rappel, which is also pretty classic. After climbing at Emeralds and Donner this past summer I forgot how chossy Dinosaur can be, but regardless we had a fun time out, even Gilbert!

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 5/10 - Size 3/10 - Accessibility 10/10
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Amanda's First Outdoor Lead / Castle Rock; South Lake Tahoe, CA 8/25

Late summer 2019 Amanda and I hiked out to Castle Rock above South Lake Tahoe.  We had never been here and our only directions were on Mountain Project so naturally we got a little lost.  After some hiking we made it to the base of the Armory Wall and I lead a gentle slab the name of which I didn't know.  It was super cool, Crossbow, 5.4 13 bolts about 100FT tall.  Amanda decided to lead it after me and I was super proud of her taking that step.  I believe we were on Crossbow.  After Crossbow we moved over one climb to do Catapult, 5.6 100FT.  By the time we finished it was getting pretty hot and it was about 1PM so we packed up and started hiking out.  We walked past a bunch of 5.6 - 10- climbs that were all really well bolted and looked super fun!  We cannot wait to come back this fall when the weather is just a little cooler.

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 7/10 - Size 7/10 - Accessibility 7/10
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Morning Snowshed Session / Snowshed; Donner Summit, CA 8/1

Early August I got out for a full morning session with my good friend John Yahr, Renown Medical Nurse of Reno, NV, and a new friend Sarah Clark also Renown Medical Nurse of Reno, NV.  We got on Devaluation, 5.7 80FT trad first and each took a turn, John lead the route.  Next we moved our anchor to Ariel, 11- 6bolts 60FT and we TRed that route, I got about 3/4 of the way up so I'm really glad I was able to make it that far with my knee.  Last Sarah and I climbed Composure, 5.6 120FT trad.  I've followed this route several times now and I think I want to go for the lead the next time I'm there.  It was a pretty standard morning I had a great time pulling down on quality rock and meeting new people.

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 9/10 - Size 8/10 - Accessibility 10/10
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Serious Post op 1/2 Day Hike / Mt Judah; Donner Summit, CA 7/28

Late July I meet up with my good friend Dan Mayes, UNR Physicist, and Lindsey Mayes UNR Admissions of Stead, NV, and of course no trip is complete without the amazing Amanda Mac!  We got to the parking area at the summit of Donner at 9 and set off on our adventure.  I'd never done a serious hike like this since breaking my knee so it was honestly yet another milestone on my recovery.  The hike begins on some switchbacks up a talus field, next you travel through a beautiful forest with wildflowers on either side.  There is an optional deviation of about 1mile roundtrip where you hike to the actual peak of Donner Summit.  Of note there are climbing anchors on the peak and this IS an established published climbing area.  We then continued on along the ridgeline of Mt Judah to the summit, and back down into the forest to make our way back a total of 6miles.  My knee was pretty sore by the end but I'm just really proud of how far I've come after less than 1yr from my second knee reconstruction surgery!

Weekend Climbing First Lead after Breaking Knee / Emeralds; Nevada City, CA 7/13-7/14/19

Mid July Amanda and I planned a super fun trip which really signaled my actual return to rock climbing, being that I was going to lead a route outside.  We decided to go to the Emeralds for reliable camping and climbing options, moderate approach time(s), and a neighboring cowboy town that we could visit.  We headed out casually on Friday to secure a good camp site, Saturday we got an early start and after a little bit of wandering we found the base of Dollar Store Wall, so I harnessed up and climbed Bushmaster 5.7, 7bolts 60'.  The route protects really well and felt pretty secure, we were also able to TR Price Check of a set of anchors that was within reach.  I might have climbed more on that wall but a whole crowd showed up which was our excuse to go swimming at Spaulding Lake.  We saw ducks, we drove out to Nevada City and got lunch and did a little shopping, we visited the Grass Valley bouldering gym, and then headed back to camp for some well earned chicken shishkabobs.  The true highlight of the trip was pulling this 5.7 mantle on my surgical knee and discovering I am not done yet!

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 8/10 - Size 9/10 - Accessibility 8/10
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All Day Climbing 4th of July / Bowman Lake; Yuba Pass CA 7/4/2019

For 4th of July 2019 I went out and had an awesome day of climbing with a few really good friends from Mesa Rim; Sam Hill, Data Analyst of Reno, NV, Weston Bone, Landscaper of... Van, and Julie Royal, Youth Mountain of South Lake Tahoe, and of course no day would be complete without Amanda!  We got an early start and drove out, the last few miles of Bowman Lake road are actually pretty rough now that I've seen them, I would recommend having dedicated 4x4.  We went to the specific spot called Larry Land which actually sits below the dam that is Bowman Lake.  It's a really incredible and ominous back drop with rebar, concrete, do no enter signs, and extreme danger of sudden flooding at any time signs.  Sam lead Mr. Nice Guy 10-, 6bolts 45', it was actually pretty stiff near the top, involving a committing overhanging mantle into a thin slab section.  I top roped the route with my infamous cowboy hat but the rest of the day was 11 and up.  Weston sent Hello Larry 11, 8bolts 70'.  Later that day we tried to hike out to the Scottland wall but we just could not find it for the life of us.  The day did end with some excitement however, we got to watch Sam Jumar up a fixed line after 12hours of listening to Sam talk about how he really wanted to Jumar a rope...?

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 8/10 - Size 7/10 - Accessibility 3/10
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Afternoon Climbing Sunny Slabs / Indian Springs; Cisco Grove CA 6/12/2019

Mid June I had a midweek break from work where I was able to get outside at Indian Springs with fellow coworker Tony Hinojosa, of Reno, NV.  We started out at the little Johny Wall area near the Indian Springs campground and climbed a couple of 5.7s.  Later that afternoon we hiked up the the Lower Tier of Indian Springs proper.  Tony lead Captain Cheese 5.8, we TRed Indian Springs.  Afterwards we moved our TR to Zephyr 5.10, and RP 4 Me 5.9, and we left that afternoon around sunset.  It was a great opportunity to get outside, climb hard, get to know my fellow staff member a little more, and get away from Reno for an afternoon to an even more beautiful location

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 4/10 - Size 4/10 - Accessibility 10/10
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First Day Climbing Outside Since I Broke my Knee / Snowshed; Donner Summit CA 6/5/2019

Early June I had a couple days off mid week and called up my friend from the gym John Yahr, Reno local and Renown ICU Nurse to do some climbing.  Donner Summit still had a lot of snow around the area but Snowshed was looking very dry and climbable.  It was great getting up to the base and seeing several familiar faces from the gym.  I top roped Composure 5.6, Molar Concentration 5.10, and Peter Principle 5.10+.  I was not able to finish the latter two as I still have a lot of brushing up to do on my crack climbing skills.  Mostly I was just thankful to be up in the mountains climbing again, and that my knee, while difficult at times, wasn't enough of a hindrance that I couldn't climb.  Temperatures were amazing, I came home and passed out afterwards.


Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 9/10 - Size 8/10 - Accessibility 10/10
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First Day Outside Since I Broke my Knee / Buckeye Hotsprings; Bridgeport CA 5/3/2019

Early May 2019 I felt ready to go outside and do something.  I had gone through two knee reconstructions and about 18months of physical therapy and while I am still lacking some muscle mass on my surgical leg and my cartilage implant is not fully healed I am so grateful to be able to begin really doing things again.  Breaking my knee has been the worst thing in my life, it was my own fault for pushing my boulder climbing too hard and not being aware of my own limits, I like to think I've matured since all of this happened.  I'm still at the climbing gym, I got promoted and I've learned a lot, I work with amazing people and I'm just knee deep (pun intended) with all the best climbers in this area all day long.  I took up weightlifting and PC gaming since I got hurt, those activities have been a good balance for me while I had to put climbing on hold.  Now I top rope 5.11 and I can lead 5.9, probably harder.  I am getting back on the horse.

Early May 2019 I felt ready to go outside and do something.  Amanda and I planned a trip to Bridgeport CA to visit some hot springs I've heard a lot about.  We went to Buckeye hot springs on Friday which were not too hard to find and accessible by car (provided you have some tolerance for bottoming out).  The hike itself from the car to the pool is rather steep and a few hundred feet long but once you get there it is well worth it.  The water was about 105, there were deer across the river which you can see in one of the photos, just sitting in a hot spring river is awesome!

We camped out Friday and visited Travertine Hot Springs on Saturday, took Highway 208 home through Yerrington and reveled in the success that my knee held up to everything I put it up too.  I actually out hiked Amanda, next time shes gonna set up the tent and make the fire, I'll handle the cooking and packing/unpacking :-p

The Day I Broke My Knee / Castle Peak; Donner Summit, CA 10/29/17

Late October I felt my life was going just a little too smoothly so I decided to break my knee.  I went bouldering with Amanda at Castle Peak west of Truckee off the 80.  The drive in wasn't too bad, just barely bottomed out a couple times but not the worst road I've seen.  The hike in was gorgeous and the trails were pretty easy to follow this time of year, plus no bugs.  Warmed up on a V1 slab, followed by a VB highball.  Tried a V3 sit start called Porcupine but wasn't able to do a highstep move that put me really far from the wall on small small crimps.  Then we hiked in further to the main area called Treasure Cove.  We ran laps on the highball VB before we were joined by a very friendly group of Bay Area climbers.  This time of day I was good and warmed up so I set my sights on Treasure Chest Left, the obvious V4 going up out of the cave on the most impressive prominent boulder.  Using a couple pads from the group that joined us I felt I had adequate coverage of the fall zone and I got to work.  Sent the start and moved through the climb, there was a cruxy move that involved standing up into kind of an undercling but once you execute that move you have really great feet to get you to the top out.  Personally I did feel the top out was the crux to be sure, and I knew I wasn't quite above my pads anymore at that point so I was clearly in a No Fall situation.  I was working on the mantle and did a bump to a crimp when either my foot slipped or I just came up short on my bump, not sure, and I came straight down about 10FT just inches from my crash pad.  I full on tore my calf muscle, strained my PCL and MCL, sprained my Tibia, sprained my Thigh Bone, and completely tore my ACL.  That was some of the worst pain I've felt in my whole life and it really took some effort not to pass out or puke.  After some heavy breathing I stood up and started forming my plan of how to self evac.  Using large branches, my hiking boot, and some shoestring I made myself a crutch and hiked like 2miles through steep difficult terrain on one leg.  Two days later I was able to stand and walk on my bad leg with no supports, but I would later come to realize that doing so is not diagnostic of anything.  After some really abrupt and exacerbated swelling on day 5 and a serious scare of a possible blood clot I knew no personal approach would possibly solve my problem and that I would require surgery to essentially go on living, the MRI confirms this.  I do have insurance fortunately, but the recovery process for an ACL tear is 6months to a year depending on the individual and the extent of the damage.  I'll continue to post updates on my progress and goings on between now and then.  For the first time in my life I can honestly say I am less frightened by the prospect of heights and lead falls, trusting gear and equipment.  For the first time in my life I am more concerned with busting my shit on a little boulder fall, because they are unexpected ground falls and the human body has it's limitations, I'm not 20years old 150LBS anymore, this injury reflects that.  I polled a number of guests recently at my job on ACL surgeries and found that about 1 in 10 of the guests have had this surgery with a full and healthy recovery, did not come across one guest that had a bad result from their surgery.  I even meet a man that was working out in the gym with two titanium knees at 74, so it can be done, there's nothing else in the equation.

Personal Review of Area:  Rock/Climb Quality 9/10 - Size 8/10 - Accessibility 4/10
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Fall Toproping / Twin Crags; Tahoe City, CA 10/22/17

Late October I spent the day in North Tahoe enjoying warm conditions and exciting basalt rock on the Twin Crag formations just East above HWY 89 between Tahoe City and Alpine Meadows.  Amanda and I got up to the cliffs around noon and set up a top rope anchor on the 4Star 5.7 Chris's Toe.  This was a trad route that wanders just a little bit, looks as though it protects well with a rack up to size 3, and has chains at the top you can rap off.  When we return I'd love to lead this route.  We also climbed on By Any Fair Means off the same anchor, a 10- trad route climbers left of Chris's Toe.  The beginning of this route climbs like 5.8 but the crux comes as you do a very steep virtually completely inverted roof hand jam traverse followed by a hand jam mantle about 1/2way up the climb.  I felt this section went at about 10+ and the folks we were climbing near that afternoon seemed to each agree that it could be sandbagged.  Amanda had an opportunity to do her first "guide mode" belay using the ATC and we really enjoyed just spending the day together.  Afterwards we got an early dinner at Tahoe Brewing Company and took a walk near the Lake.

Personal Review of Area:  Rock/Climb Quality 6/10 - Size 6/10 - Accessibility 8/10
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October Festivities / Redding, CA 10/13-10/14 2017

Mid October Amanda and I took a small vacation up in Redding, CA to enjoy our 4th Halloween together and celebrate her promotion coupled with finding my place at Mesa Rim.  We left on Friday the 13th early in the morning and made the drive by 11AM.  We first stopped at Turtle Bay to see the beautiful sundial bridge above the Sacramento River, walked through public gardens, and saw the animal exhibits.  My favorite animal was probably the Bobcat, Amanda's was the Parrot.  We had a relaxing night at our room and enjoyed the hot tub.  Saturday we woke up casually and ventured out to Shasta Lake and Shasta Dam, we did some shopping, ate at Redding's Ultimate Pizza, then on to the main event, Dreams of Darkness Haunted House!  45Minutes long, and it did not disappoint.  Amanda's favorite part was the simulated crashing elevator scene.  My favorite part was a tie between the swamp area we had to scramble through towards the beginning and the exploratory graveyard areas outside.

Further Exploration / Fort Sage; Doyle, CA 10/3

Early October I made a day trip out to Doyle, CA with my recent go to climbing partner Collin Watters (Mt Rose Lift Ops) of Galena, NV.  The road was in great shape and easy to negotiate, we started the day at the Taylor Bay boulders further South along the circuit.  Temperatures were a little frigid without the sun so we took our time warming up before we found a quality problem we wanted to work.  A V3 sit start by the name of Dabtastic.  I think one of the big joys of bouldering with other people is sharing beta and observing the different solutions different people will use to accomplish the same climb.  Rather than use a coordinated heel hook as Collin did for the start I did a powerful dynamic throw to an ok sloper that I was falling away from, but I got it to work.  Later we drove up to Sail rock and checked out the Forever Young boulder briefly before it began to rain.  On my way through the circuit to the South entrance I noticed free designated campgrounds complete with bathrooms and firepits.  If you're looking for peace and quiet I highly recommend visiting this area.  I snapped a photo of some fire damage from this past summer, it appears that only patches of bushes were burnt and there's no obvious impact to the area or to the climbing upon first glance.

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 6/10 - Size 6/10 - Accessibility 4/10
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Battle w/ the Chimmney / Sugarloaf; Kyburz, CA 9/26/17

Late September Collin Watters (Mt Rose Lift Ops) of Galena, NV and I spent the day at Sugarloaf west down highway 50 towards Placerville.  The approach was pretty arduous but once we were there the psych level was high as seen below.  Our mission for the day was Scheister, 5.7 3 pitches 400FT.  I lead the first pitch which started off smooth until I came to the mandatory vertical flared 30FT runout squeeze chimney; I proceeded to crux out for a good hour before sending it.  Progress was slow for me up that section and I would have to say the crux of the route proved to be much more than I had anticipated leaving me with barely enough energy to build an anchor or stand up.  Naturally I lead the very next pitch, a lieback/handcrack.  The second pitch was our favorite from the day, the climbing was good, everything protected well, no chimneys!  Collin tackled the last pitch but actually ended up off route on Farley, a 5.9+R slab climb up knobs protected by a single bolt towards the bottom.  Route finding is definitely a function of trad climbing that you don't encounter on single pitch sport.  Once at the summit we weren't actually standing anywhere near the down climb and our guide book left us with a set of instructions that effectively amounted to "just go up and then get down".  We were at the base of a broken tunnel of stacked boulders which we crawled through.  We found a traverse on the other side just above a large overhang 400FT up.  We set up a suspect belay and followed the traverse to some class 4 slab that eventually lead to a climbers trail followed by an ocean of sticker bushes and obscenities.  I don't believe Sugarloaf sees much traffic and I walked away with a deeper understanding of myself, squeeze chimneys are not my jam.  You walk up to a climb on the sharp end and you know you're going to do battle to some degree and even after you reach the top you've still got to get down.  I love trad for the mental aspect that accompanies the activity, but this day in particular presented with a few challenges.  Phew!

Personal Review of Area :  Rock/Climb Quality 7/10 - Size 6/10 - Accessibility 5/10

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