Wednesday, April 22, 2015

Afternoon Climbing; Washoe Boulders Carson City NV 4/20

Mid April I made an afternoon visit to the Washoe Boulders with the goal of learning the first moves on the popular Wasabi, v7.  I was able to do this, though I got shut down reaching up left to the crimp match about 1/3 of the way up the climb.  I also found some new beta for myself on the crux moves of Arch Enemy as seen below, no need to dyno anymore.  The Washoe Boulders truly are always gorgeous, glowing, playgrounds in the sun, the view of Carson and Washoe lake is appreciated, the approach is brief, the diversity of climbs is good, and the rock is reasonable quality.  With summer around the corner I look forward to more sunset sessions on the steep volcanic of Wasabi.

Rock/Climb Quality :  5/10  Size :  3/10  Accessibility :  10/10

Thursday, April 2, 2015

Afternoon Climbing; Iron Buttes Dayon NV 4/2

Early April I made a day trip out to Iron Buttes to climb some trad and also to send the climb Grip Master coming off of Wild Women of Planet Playtex.  Climbing with me was my friend Craig Black of Dayton NV and our buddy Gilbert as seen below.  We started the day with the 5.9 slab Wild Women... up to the base of Grip Master, the first bolt on Grip Master was easy to reach but from here begins what we felt amounted to 5.10+ slab moves on grippy but thin volcanic rock, I know I did not climb as clean as I might have liked.  After Grip Master we had a look at The Wall, an 80ft 5.9 face climb with checkerboard cracks running every direction, though some are slopey and would not take gear.  Craig lead this climb as his first trad lead ever and actually ended up above the anchors having to scramble over.  All and all it was a great day out and a welcome alternative to the snow and rain in the Washoe Valley and Tahoe areas for this week.  Puppies make for poor climbing partners...

Rock/Climb Quality :  6/10  Size :  3/10  Accessibility :  8/10