Week Long Vacation, World-class Sedimentary Sport / Maple Canyon; Nephi, UT 10/13-14/20

 Mid October Amanda and I took a much needed vacation from work, from covid, from life.  We first drove to Eastern Nevada to camp at Lamoile Canyon and were confronted with a fierce snow storm on the very first night of the trip.  The following day we drove through Elko to get to 6mile Canyon Hot Springs which was a welcome change from the snow, and later that day we continued to Ely Nevada where we found time to do a little bit of rock hunting.  The next day we made the long push from Ely to Nephi UT, but not before stopping at the cowboy coal ovens outside Ely.  We spent two days mid week climbing at Maple Canyon and did over half a dozen routes from 5.9 and below all while breaking in our new 60M 9.3mm Petzl Rope.  The climbing was incredible, mostly jugs but sometimes polished, everything was bolted phenomenally.  We spent two more days hiking around Bryce Canyon before driving back to Nevada.  Towards the end of the trip we got to see a natural wonder called Cathedral Gorge, and one more hot spring called Spencer Hot Springs.  The trip was a blast and almost surreal.  Everything was dirt cheap or free to participate in, even the guide book was rented, everything was outside, and everything was socially distanced!

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 10/10 - Size 10/10 - Accessibility 10/10
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Half Day Climbing, Volcanic Perch South Lake / Castle Rock; Stateline, NV 6/30/20

Late June 2020 I realized I was probably going to survive the apocalypse.  For anyone reading this post out of context between the Coronavirus pandemic and severe civil unrest  in the states, not to mention a second great depression it felt like the apocalypse, so I went rock climbing?  I was invited again by my good friend and fellow coworker Justin Hight to visit Castle Rock.  Castle Rock may very well be my new favorite climbing spot for the Tahoe area, I've been here several times since returning from knee surgery.  We started at the Armory wall on the varied and featured 5.8 called Space Pants.  Next we moved East back toward The Court Jester, a 5.6 slab/jug haul with a solid 5.8 crux mantle move, but really easy movement apart from that.  Court Jester looks incredibly fun from the ground and it does not disappoint, the views are incredible!  I got the lead on both of these climbs which had me feeling good for my first day back.  Last we moved over to the Central Gully onto a thin slab / diheadral called Dragon's Tail, 5.10, which Justin lead I followed.  I thought this route was pretty hard I definitely cheated a little using the massive crack off left to muscle my way up.  We left shortly after drained from the sun but very satisfied.

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 7/10 - Size 7/10 - Accessibility 7/10
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All Day Climbing, Alpine Desert / Pig Rock; Pyramid Lake, NV 12/17/19

Mid December I made a winter pilgrimage out to Pig Rock for my first time back in over 5years.  I was really excited to see this desolate unique spot again and see how well I remembered it.  Also this was my first time climbing with Justin Hight, Mesa Rim Front Desk co-worker and Reno local, so it was great to be with someone that was on a very similar level.  We spent a little over an hour driving out there to find the road was just as tricky as I remember it, do not try this in anything less than dedicated 4x4.  We were at the base by about 10AM with the sun just beginning to show up, we warmed up on Little Sheep Wall in the Contra Canyon, on an unnamed route that is described as "5.7, maybe 5.9, I don't know, weird but fun" 4Bolts 35FT, and yeah, next we climbed a slabby 5.8 all the way to left called Uncle Olly, 4Bolts 35FT.  We agreed Uncle Olly seemed like much better quality movement, could be 5.9 as well it was a little thin, but good moves including a fun little mantle.  We moved our anchor over to Waste of Time, a 35FT 5.10 that was missing bolts, so now its a top rope?  There was a crux section that Justin fumbled through but I managed to send it after about 10minutes of trying the move and down climbing to a rest over and over.

 

Later we hiked to the Contra Towers to discover what was available.  Little did we know ALL the climbing for this section is on the South side of the hill, and naturally we started from the far end of the North side, zig zagged through, then figured shit out.  There are a couple cool 5.10s as well as a stiff thin looking 5.12.  Justin lead a 40FT 5.10 4Bolts, called Tropic Sun that felt pretty hard for both of us, barring all the right beta, we bolt to bolted this route.  Now it was time to head back into Reno before Justin had his shift start at the desk.  We were thoroughly exhausted, being the old man I did not have work this day and instead I went home and went to bed!

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 4/10 - Size 2/10 - Accessibility 1/10
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Afternoon Climbing, Moderate Sport / Castle Rock; South Lake Tahoe, CA 10/24

Late October Amanda and I made a day trip out to Castle Rock above South Lake Tahoe to climb on some super stellar volcanic sport routes.  This was just before our trip to San Diego for the employee exchange program at Mesa Rim, so I wanted to have a good time and avoid any knee pain/over use.  We got to the base around 11AM, temps were comfortable, no snow, routes were in the sun.  We both onsighted a 90FT 5.8, 9Bolts, called Pillage the Village.  The beginning is probably more of 5.6, with some class 5 towards the middle, and a vertical 5.8 finish that you can make harder if you don't have the right beta.  Amanda flashed the route as well.  Next we walked around the corner to a shorter 30FT 5.8, called Space Pants.  The movement on this climb was actually really good, big reaches to good holds, and some tufa like holds.  Space Pants can actually be combined into a chill two pitch climb because it tops out at the base of a couple other routes that make up the Armory Wall.  After a day of sport climbing we returned home to promptly collapse on our bed.

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 7/10 - Size 7/10 - Accessibility 7/10
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