Full Day Climbing; Donner Summit Donner Lake CA 10/2/15

At the beginning of October I had a chance to catch up with my good friend Craig Black of Gardnerville, NV ( Finance Major, Certified Level One Rope Access Tech ).  We drove up Friday morning hoping for cool but sunny conditions at the summit as it had rained very hard the day before.  We went to the Snowshed Wall for convenience sake and we were meet by about half a dozen other climbers on various routes on either side of the wall.  Craig choose to lead the Composure Crack on the West Face, 5.6 hand jams/stemming about 30M tall.  I TRed the route and then moved our rope over to the 5.11- arete known as Aerial.  The climb felt stiff even for the grade and I would honestly put it closer to 5.12.  Later that day we moved on to the Green Phantom wall just below the arch bridge and TRed a nice low angle slab called The Phantom Staircase.  This confirms my impression that the low angle slab climbs of Donner are challenging but great exercise in footwork.  Oh yeah, and we made friends with a local climber that day...

(Snowshed Wall)
Personal Review of Area :  Rock/Climb Quality 9/10  -  Size 8/10  -  Accessibility 10/10
Public Information :  http://tinyurl.com/m6mle3g
Approx. Location :  http://tinyurl.com/gqnvkds

(Green Phantom)
Personal Review of Area :  Rock/Climb Quality 5/10  -  Size 4/10  -  Accessibility 10/10
Public Information :  http://tinyurl.com/hy5azhp
Approx. Location :  http://tinyurl.com/j82yqpc

Contact Info @ bottom of Page.

Afternoon Climbing; Trippy Rock Incline Village NV 9/19/15

Mid September my dad was in town for the weekend and so naturally my girlfriend (Amanda Mac of Reno NV, Health Science Graduate), my dad (Scott Foster of Las Vegas NV, Professional Engineer) and myself went climbing together, this time just outside of Incline Village up Highway 431 at a sport climbing area known as Trippy Rock.  The rock here is volcanic but also a little slippery and polished at times.  Most of the routes could stand to be cleaned as this area does not see a lot of traffic.  We warmed up on a massive 5.5 crack that I really just soloed up and then belayed Amanda up to me from two chains at the top.  After that I lead the 5.10 climb known as First Dose.  The crux came at about halfway and involved a tenuous slab traverse to a short overhanging roof with the 3rd bolt a couple moves above the roof.  The climb goes from vertical to slab to overhanging with the second half sustained 5.10 overhanging for a total of about 50FT of climbing.  Amanda nearly sent her first 5.10 top rope this day and vowed to return for vengeance, or something like that.

Personal Review of Area :  Rock/Climb Quality 3/10  -  Size 1/10  -  Accessibility 9/10
Public Information :  http://tinyurl.com/j3vz8ew
Approx. Location :  http://tinyurl.com/ze47ev5
Contact Info @ Bottom of Page.

Overnight Climbing; Donner Summit Donner Lake CA 8/12-8/13/15

Early August I did an overnight camping/climbing trip at Donner Summit with my friend Greg Cooper, Medical Student, of Reno, NV.  We left Reno at a little after 2 on Wednesday and drove straight to the Grouse Slabs near the top of Donner Summit to get on the Insidious Crack, 5.6 165FT 1Pitch.  By the time we started (4PM) conditions were perfect and we had full shade cover.  I lead the climb clean feeling confident on the slabs and crimps but also placing my feet in the crack.  I still have a lot to learn in terms of hand jams.  Greg and I later set up a top rope on Cream Puff (right of Insidious Crack, 60FT), a thin 5.10 with balance intensive moves off crimps.  We camped that night below the Snowshed Wall off the side of the road as seen below, enjoying great views of the lake and good food cooked over a small fire.  Also there was a meteor shower taking place that night; easily viewed at that elevation away from the lights of Reno.  Thursday we were up bright and early to climb Composure at the west end of the Snowshed wall, a 180FT 5.6 crack with lots of hand jams and stemming moves on a vertical dihedral.  I followed Greg up this climb so we could then rappel down to the anchors for Manic Depression and Monkey Paws, 11+ and 12- crack climbs up the steep gently overhanging face of the Snowshed north wall.  As per usual I became tired lie backing 12- cracks while Greg ran laps on the crux sections looking to memorize the sequence.  As much as I enjoyed getting another 5.6 under my belt of trad leads I really enjoyed working up Cream Puff, this was the most difficult low angle slab I have ever tried.

(Grouse Slabs)

Personal Review of Area :  Rock/Climb Quality 10/10  -  Size 8/10  -  Accessibility 9/10

Public Information :  http://tinyurl.com/hsb6e6b

Approx. Location :  http://tinyurl.com/hurnlhm

(Snowshed Wall)

Personal Review of Area :  Rock/Climb Quality 9/10  -  Size 8/10  -  Accessibility 10/10

Public Information :  http://tinyurl.com/m6mle3g

Approx. Location :  http://tinyurl.com/hdvyqne

Contact Info @ Bottom of Page.

Weekend Climbing; Lover's Leap Strawberry CA 7/25/15

Late July I spent the weekend at Lover's Leap climbing and camping with Amanda.  We got in Friday night 7/24 and woke up early Saturday to climb the Knapsack Crack on the Hog's Back formation.  This Class V Alpine Climb with some 5.6 hand jams was a great first multi pitch to introduce Amanda to but also for myself to practice building anchors and placing nuts.  The climb was 300FT and we did it in just two pitches with a 70M rope.  We also choose to use radios for communication which really helped when we were separated by over 200FT from the top of the first pitch all the way to the top of the formation.  We plan to return to climb a sustained 5.6 crack and build on our multi pitch experience.  I would highly recommend this climb to anyone looking to learn trad with a basic knowledge of anchors and rope management.

Personal Review of Area :  Rock/Climb Quality 10/10  -  Size 10/10  -  Accessibility 9/10

Public Information :  http://tinyurl.com/h3cswo9

Approx. Location :  http://tinyurl.com/h3nljrf

Contact Info @ Bottom of Page.

Full Day Trip; Zephyr Boulders Zephyr Cove CA 7/11/15

Early July I took part in a group day trip to the Zephyr Boulders outside South Lake Tahoe with the always joyful Amanda Mac, as well as Dan Mayes of Stead, NV, and Johnny Crandall of Carson City, NV.  We spent the day at the area referred to as Mecca in the new Dave Hatchett book(s).  There were several other parties out there that day and between young women sending v4 and other climbers topping out highballs the excitement level was very high.  I can't say that we sent hard, but we certainly had a lot of fun.  This vB slab arete was my favorite climb of the day simply for aesthetic purposes and the amount of shade.

Personal Review of Area :  Rock/Climb Quality 6/10  -  Size 4/10  -  Accessibility :  6/10

Public Information :  http://tinyurl.com/jnr7cbq

Approx. Location :  http://tinyurl.com/zyb9m6q

Contact Info at Bottom of Page.

Full Day Trip; Spooner Crag Spooner Lake NV 7/3/15

Early July I choose to kick off the weekend with another trip to Spooner Crag atop Highway 50 with my lovely girlfriend Amanda Mac, and a new friend from Basecamp Climbing Gym, Zach Ross of Reno, NV.  We first climbed the 5.7 crack Maxwell's Hammer which I soon realized does not take nuts, the crack at the top is flared at times and definately only accepts size 1" to 2" pro, so the top was just a solo for me, not recommended.  The real climbing of the day was up Pocket Pool, a short 5.10+ overhanging hueco/jug haul up a pocketed volcanic boulder.  The highlight of the climb for me was the no hands knee bar rest halfway up before the 3rd bolt.  I'd never done a knee bar before but I have to say this was stress free and pain free despite my assumptions.  Below can be seen myself reaching the anchors, Zach feeling out the holds at the 3rd bolt, and Amanda doing a high gaston on an incut juggy flake while her right foot is back stepped and flagged.  This may or may not have added a grade of difficulty to this section.

Personal Review of Area :  Rock/Climb Quality 7/10  -  Size 4/10  -  Accessibility 9/10

Public Information :  http://tinyurl.com/jqtbknt
Approx. Location :  http://tinyurl.com/hcyag6v
Contact Info @ Bottom of Page.

Morning Climbing; Bottle Creek Meyers CA 6/23

Mid June I spent a night at the Lover's Leap Campground in Strawberry CA with my dad who was visiting from out of town.  Always a great experience camping around other climbers, the spot was awesome.  Tuesday we went first thing to the small crag known as Bottle Creek which is just outside Meyers up highway 50 a short ways.  I started the day by leading the gradual 5.6 crack seen below, though I goofed my cam placement as I managed to get my rope snagged under a protrusion of the crack.  I believe the mistake was that I did not place the pro on the climbers left where the climb was trending and I had thought the sling would help make up the difference.  Next I just top roped the steep 11 around the corner to the right which I'm told goes by the name Hot Fingers.  The beginning feels about v5 to me but the upper section comes much more easily and seems on par for 5.11.  I personally enjoy this spot for the ease of access and the range of climbs available.  I was disappointed another party showed up and claimed the 5.8 crack(s).

Personal Review of Area :  Rock/Climb Quality 6/10  -  Size 3/10  -  Accessibility 8/10

Public Information :  http://tinyurl.com/hybomuk

Approx. Location :  http://tinyurl.com/hrw6tfv

Contact Info @ Bottom of Page.

Evening Climbing; River Rock Verdi NV 6/9

Early June I paid another visit to River Rock west of Verdi NV with Amanda.  We were surprised to see a whole group of some dozen people there from a social gathering site called MeetUp.  Most of the popular routes were already being climbed with the exception of Spring Break, a 60FT 5.8 handcrack described as the best lead at River Rock.  I felt great climbing this route as the placements seemed secure and I did not get tired.  I had one long take near the top while I tried to find a sequence through the crack which would allow me to stand in the crack without putting my foot on my rope.  In the end I decided to lye back that section.

Personal Review of Area :  Rock/Climb Quality 5/10  -  Size 4/10  -  Accessibility 8/10

More Information Available @: http://tinyurl.com/z5lzdyh

Approx. Location :  http://tinyurl.com/jcg4yer

Contact Info @ Bottom of Page.

Afternoon Climbing; Basecamp Climbing Gym Reno NV Month of May

For the better part of May I found myself busy with college finals and work, my friends as well.  Sadly I did not climb outside in May but I did take the opportunity to practice leading and belaying with my lovely girlfriend at Basecamp Climbing Gym in downtown Reno.  The great part of this gym is the convenience and the clean new facilities, also the tall bouldering walls inside and generally great staff.  We climbed a variety from vB to 5.10- and we also sent the second pitch for a total of 165FT of climbing, the world's tallest man made climbing wall.  The best part was leading the 70FT 5.9 clean and belaying Amanda up to me without ever hearing the call for take.  Very impressive for someone so new to climbing.

Public Information :  http://tinyurl.com/j7oc65k

Approx. Location :  http://tinyurl.com/jelyzmu

Contact Info @ Bottom of Page.

Afternoon Climbing; River Rock Verdi NV 4/30

At the end of April I made a visit to the River Rock trad crag just outside Verdi.  With a little more exposure to trad placements I decided to lead the popular UNR crack today along with my good friend Craig Black of Dayton NV.  I managed to finish the climb but that's about all I will say, though I do feel I've learned a thing or two about trusting myself and about placing cams in such a way that they will not be pulled up and out of position as you generate rope drag.  Reviews of this climb suggest a possible 5.9 grade for the crux as seen below in this video.  I wont speculate as to whether this is true, though I will say this section has no comparison to the final pitch I lead on One Hand Clapping at Black Wall earlier this year.  All and all I had a great afternoon out completing what felt like was my first real trad lead ever.

Personal Review of Area :  Rock/Climb Quality 5/10  -  Size 4/10  -  Accessibility 8/10   

Public Information : http://tinyurl.com/z5lzdyh

Approx. Location :  http://tinyurl.com/jx7kc8r

Contact Info @ Bottom of Page.

Afternoon Climbing; Washoe Boulders Carson City NV 4/20

Mid April I made an afternoon visit to the Washoe Boulders with the goal of learning the first moves on the popular Wasabi, v7.  I was able to do this, though I got shut down reaching up left to the crimp match about 1/3 of the way up the climb.  I also found some new beta for myself on the crux moves of Arch Enemy as seen below, no need to dyno anymore.  The Washoe Boulders truly are always gorgeous, glowing, playgrounds in the sun, the view of Carson and Washoe lake is appreciated, the approach is brief, the diversity of climbs is good, and the rock is reasonable quality.  With summer around the corner I look forward to more sunset sessions on the steep volcanic of Wasabi.

Rock/Climb Quality :  5/10  Size :  3/10  Accessibility :  10/10

More Information Available @ :  http://www.mountainproject.com/v/washoe-boulders/106303125

Afternoon Climbing; Iron Buttes Dayon NV 4/2

Early April I made a day trip out to Iron Buttes to climb some trad and also to send the climb Grip Master coming off of Wild Women of Planet Playtex.  Climbing with me was my friend Craig Black of Dayton NV and our buddy Gilbert as seen below.  We started the day with the 5.9 slab Wild Women... up to the base of Grip Master, the first bolt on Grip Master was easy to reach but from here begins what we felt amounted to 5.10+ slab moves on grippy but thin volcanic rock, I know I did not climb as clean as I might have liked.  After Grip Master we had a look at The Wall, an 80ft 5.9 face climb with checkerboard cracks running every direction, though some are slopey and would not take gear.  Craig lead this climb as his first trad lead ever and actually ended up above the anchors having to scramble over.  All and all it was a great day out and a welcome alternative to the snow and rain in the Washoe Valley and Tahoe areas for this week.  Puppies make for poor climbing partners...

Rock/Climb Quality :  6/10  Size :  3/10  Accessibility :  8/10

More Information Available @ :  http://www.mountainproject.com/v/iron-butte/105816095

Full Day Trip Climbing; Lover's Leap Strawberry CA 3/21

Late March I took a full day trip out to West Tahoe to climb the Leap with friend and partner Greg Cooper of Reno NV.  A full day it was no doubt, we started our approach at 10AM after a 2hour car ride along 395 to the 50.  Our first route of the day goes by the name Surrealistic Pillar and it is featured in the Supertopo book as well as Mountain Project, about 400ft split up by 3 pitches of 5.8/5.7 with some run out class 5 scrambling near the top.  We ran out our 60m and cut it down to 2 pitches.  From here you have a 30minute hike through the forest and up the mountain to get to the base of the main wall (from the top of Lower Buttress).  We climbed the Traveler Buttress up the Main Wall beginning with a stout 5.9 offwidth which presented it's challenges as the face is relatively blank.  Pitch two of the Buttress was my personal favorite as the exposure was superb and climbing up the massive dike ladders gives a strong sensation of victory with the pain of the offwidth behind us.  The final pitch is more class5 scrambling with the tippy top of the entire crag in sight.  This was an incredible opportunity to follow an experienced 5.10minus trad climber up one of the 50 great classic climbs of America (according to both Ueli Steck and Royal Robbins).

Rock/Climb Quality :  10/10  Size :  10/10  Accessibility :  9/10

More Information Available @ : http://www.mountainproject.com/v/lovers-leap/105733959

Afternoon Climbing; Dinosaur Rock Carson City NV 3/19

Mid March I made an evening visit to Dinosaur Rock in Carson, a favorite for local sport climbing and trad routes with an easy approach and plenty of shade.  Belaying and leading with me was my good friend Craig Black of Dayton NV. The highlight of the afternoon for me was top roping the classic 5.9 Color Me Gone and placing pro along the way, I plan to go for the lead next time.

Rock/Climb Quality :  5/10  Size  : 3/10  Accessibility  :  10/10

More Information Available @ :  http://www.mountainproject.com/v/dinosaur-rock/105798498

Afternoon Climbing; Spooner Crag Spooner Lake NV 3/13

Mid March I took a spring break vacation to Lake Tahoe with my lovely girlfriend Amanda.  Naturally that means we went rock climbing. Spooner was perfect for our purposes with an easy enough approach, several 5.7 to10minus climbs, and many 11+ climbs which are easy to set up on top rope.  This area does see plenty of sun however, certainly a spring location or sunset area.  After scrambling up the 40ft 5.1ramp I reached the anchors for the bottom of night cap (5.9) and with my better halves' help I lead the second pitch affording a great view.

Rock/Climb Quality :  7/10  Size :  4/10  Accessibility :  9/10

More Information Available @:  http://www.mountainproject.com/v/spooner-crag/106720765

Exploration; Cloud Nine Boulders Incline Village NV 2/12

Mid February I spent a morning on the GI Joe boulder at the Cloud Nine Boulders described in Hatchet's Guide Book South/East Shore Bouldering.  My sole purpose for this session was to ascertain a nice photograph of myself for a header on my soon to be resume cover letter(s).  I quickly remembered how difficult and sometimes sketchy solo bouldering really is.  I cannot grade this spot as I only did a single climb and unfortunately the hillside was covered in snow.  I will do a write up on my process of developing an outdoor recreation oriented portfolio for job purposes once my own said items are complete.  Until then enjoy this lovely photo...

More Information Available @: http://www.laketahoebouldering.com/guide/se-shore/south-east-shore-guide/

Exploration; Zephyr Boulders Zephyr Cove CA 2/1

Early February I made a short day trip to the Zephyr Boulders to do some solo climbing and also visit a new area out of the East/South Shore Dave Hatchet Guide Book.  The parking area and trail were easy enough to navigate following the directions in the guide, the hike was relative, the views were awesome, and the boulders were fun but a little on the small side.  I managed to send a v3 slab and also a v4 campus traverse nearby named bear's cave.  An excellent place for an afternoon of climbing if you happen to be in the South Tahoe area, good for cold days.

Rock/Climb Quality :  6/10  Size :  4/10  Accessibility :  6/10
More Information Available @:  http://www.laketahoebouldering.com/guide/se-shore/south-east-shore-guide/

Full Day Climbing; Black Wall Donner CA 1/25

Late January on a Sunday Afternoon I took a day trip out to Black Wall in Donner CA with friend and climbing partner Greg Cooper of Reno NV.  We ended up climbing One Hand Clapping later that day with Greg on lead and myself picking up some beta on placements and hand jams.  We reached the Lizard Belay Ledge and I choose to lead the final pitch, 5.7.  I recognize this climb as my first trad lead ever simply because the mental aspect was much greater than any 5.6/5.7 I've lead before as a single stand alone pitch.  Grunting my way up overhanging 5.9 hand cracks and finger crack faces had left me feeling tired, then there's the 12hr graveyard shift I pulled the night before...  This was my first day at the Black Wall and it did not disappoint.  I can not presume to grade such an area after such a small sample of the total available climbing and my own experience, but for the sake of interest...

Rock/Climb Quality :  9/10  Size :  8/10  Accessibility :  9/10

More Information Avaliable @:  http://www.mountainproject.com/v/black-wall/105734552

Exploration; Owl Rock (South) Reno NV 1/23

Mid January, on a Friday afternoon I made a solo visit to Owl Rock in South Reno to have a closer look at a TR bolted slab line I had seen on my hike back to the car previously but did not have the time to climb.  This line is along the West facing side of the formation on the obvious gradual 5.6 slab, the bolts are standard Petzl 1/2'' diameter bolts as seen in the first photo below.  I used a self belay set up with the Gri Gri 2 and lowered down cleaning off holds, next I climbed the line once at the bottom.  Approx. 50FT tall this line offers a beautiful view of Reno.  I recommend bringing slings to extend the anchors for edge protection purposes.

More Info Available @:  http://www.mountainproject.com/v/owl-rock/106307303

Afternoon Climbing; Floriston Boulders Floriston NV 1/17

Mid January I made an afternoon visit to the Floriston Boulders with an animated friend who had developed most of the lines, Eric Austin of Truckee CA.  This makes for a great session if you are strapped for time and not interested in driving too far. This area is composed of a small concentration of lowball granite basalt boulders with a mix of crumbling blocky choss.  The problems cover approximately the whole range of difficulty, though some are contrived. Landings are great. Some problems border on private property so respect and common sense apply.


Rock/Climb Quality :  3/10  Size :  2/10  Accessibility :  10/10
More Info Available @: BookOfBoulders.com

Afternoon Climbing; River Rock Verdi NV 1/11

We had a great time sending On Safari, 5.6 Trad Arrete (65ft) at River Rock yesterday.  This was an excellent line for the two of us as Amanda is still familiarizing herself with the process of giving a lead belay and I had the opportunity to place a couple pieces of pro near the top where the route becomes run out.  The rock at River Rock is all granite though a little gritty and rough at times than most of what you see in Tahoe.  The approach is quick, there is a decent variety from 5.6 to 11-, probably about one dozen lines sharing half a dozen sets of anchors, mostly crack climbing not much sport.  A fun place to break in or escape Reno for an afternoon without making a far drive.

Rock/Climb Quality :  5/10  Size : 4 /10  Accessibility :  8/10

More Information Available @:  http://www.mountainproject.com/v/river-rock/106316311