Overnight Climbing; Donner Summit Donner Lake CA 8/12-8/13/15

Early August I did an overnight camping/climbing trip at Donner Summit with my friend Greg Cooper, Medical Student, of Reno, NV.  We left Reno at a little after 2 on Wednesday and drove straight to the Grouse Slabs near the top of Donner Summit to get on the Insidious Crack, 5.6 165FT 1Pitch.  By the time we started (4PM) conditions were perfect and we had full shade cover.  I lead the climb clean feeling confident on the slabs and crimps but also placing my feet in the crack.  I still have a lot to learn in terms of hand jams.  Greg and I later set up a top rope on Cream Puff (right of Insidious Crack, 60FT), a thin 5.10 with balance intensive moves off crimps.  We camped that night below the Snowshed Wall off the side of the road as seen below, enjoying great views of the lake and good food cooked over a small fire.  Also there was a meteor shower taking place that night; easily viewed at that elevation away from the lights of Reno.  Thursday we were up bright and early to climb Composure at the west end of the Snowshed wall, a 180FT 5.6 crack with lots of hand jams and stemming moves on a vertical dihedral.  I followed Greg up this climb so we could then rappel down to the anchors for Manic Depression and Monkey Paws, 11+ and 12- crack climbs up the steep gently overhanging face of the Snowshed north wall.  As per usual I became tired lie backing 12- cracks while Greg ran laps on the crux sections looking to memorize the sequence.  As much as I enjoyed getting another 5.6 under my belt of trad leads I really enjoyed working up Cream Puff, this was the most difficult low angle slab I have ever tried.

(Grouse Slabs)

Personal Review of Area :  Rock/Climb Quality 10/10  -  Size 8/10  -  Accessibility 9/10

Public Information :  http://tinyurl.com/hsb6e6b

Approx. Location :  http://tinyurl.com/hurnlhm

(Snowshed Wall)

Personal Review of Area :  Rock/Climb Quality 9/10  -  Size 8/10  -  Accessibility 10/10

Public Information :  http://tinyurl.com/m6mle3g

Approx. Location :  http://tinyurl.com/hdvyqne

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