The Day I Broke My Knee / Castle Peak; Donner Summit, CA 10/29/17

Late October I felt my life was going just a little too smoothly so I decided to break my knee.  I went bouldering with Amanda at Castle Peak west of Truckee off the 80.  The drive in wasn't too bad, just barely bottomed out a couple times but not the worst road I've seen.  The hike in was gorgeous and the trails were pretty easy to follow this time of year, plus no bugs.  Warmed up on a V1 slab, followed by a VB highball.  Tried a V3 sit start called Porcupine but wasn't able to do a highstep move that put me really far from the wall on small small crimps.  Then we hiked in further to the main area called Treasure Cove.  We ran laps on the highball VB before we were joined by a very friendly group of Bay Area climbers.  This time of day I was good and warmed up so I set my sights on Treasure Chest Left, the obvious V4 going up out of the cave on the most impressive prominent boulder.  Using a couple pads from the group that joined us I felt I had adequate coverage of the fall zone and I got to work.  Sent the start and moved through the climb, there was a cruxy move that involved standing up into kind of an undercling but once you execute that move you have really great feet to get you to the top out.  Personally I did feel the top out was the crux to be sure, and I knew I wasn't quite above my pads anymore at that point so I was clearly in a No Fall situation.  I was working on the mantle and did a bump to a crimp when either my foot slipped or I just came up short on my bump, not sure, and I came straight down about 10FT just inches from my crash pad.  I full on tore my calf muscle, strained my PCL and MCL, sprained my Tibia, sprained my Thigh Bone, and completely tore my ACL.  That was some of the worst pain I've felt in my whole life and it really took some effort not to pass out or puke.  After some heavy breathing I stood up and started forming my plan of how to self evac.  Using large branches, my hiking boot, and some shoestring I made myself a crutch and hiked like 2miles through steep difficult terrain on one leg.  Two days later I was able to stand and walk on my bad leg with no supports, but I would later come to realize that doing so is not diagnostic of anything.  After some really abrupt and exacerbated swelling on day 5 and a serious scare of a possible blood clot I knew no personal approach would possibly solve my problem and that I would require surgery to essentially go on living, the MRI confirms this.  I do have insurance fortunately, but the recovery process for an ACL tear is 6months to a year depending on the individual and the extent of the damage.  I'll continue to post updates on my progress and goings on between now and then.  For the first time in my life I can honestly say I am less frightened by the prospect of heights and lead falls, trusting gear and equipment.  For the first time in my life I am more concerned with busting my shit on a little boulder fall, because they are unexpected ground falls and the human body has it's limitations, I'm not 20years old 150LBS anymore, this injury reflects that.  I polled a number of guests recently at my job on ACL surgeries and found that about 1 in 10 of the guests have had this surgery with a full and healthy recovery, did not come across one guest that had a bad result from their surgery.  I even meet a man that was working out in the gym with two titanium knees at 74, so it can be done, there's nothing else in the equation.

Personal Review of Area:  Rock/Climb Quality 9/10 - Size 8/10 - Accessibility 4/10
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Fall Toproping / Twin Crags; Tahoe City, CA 10/22/17

Late October I spent the day in North Tahoe enjoying warm conditions and exciting basalt rock on the Twin Crag formations just East above HWY 89 between Tahoe City and Alpine Meadows.  Amanda and I got up to the cliffs around noon and set up a top rope anchor on the 4Star 5.7 Chris's Toe.  This was a trad route that wanders just a little bit, looks as though it protects well with a rack up to size 3, and has chains at the top you can rap off.  When we return I'd love to lead this route.  We also climbed on By Any Fair Means off the same anchor, a 10- trad route climbers left of Chris's Toe.  The beginning of this route climbs like 5.8 but the crux comes as you do a very steep virtually completely inverted roof hand jam traverse followed by a hand jam mantle about 1/2way up the climb.  I felt this section went at about 10+ and the folks we were climbing near that afternoon seemed to each agree that it could be sandbagged.  Amanda had an opportunity to do her first "guide mode" belay using the ATC and we really enjoyed just spending the day together.  Afterwards we got an early dinner at Tahoe Brewing Company and took a walk near the Lake.

Personal Review of Area:  Rock/Climb Quality 6/10 - Size 6/10 - Accessibility 8/10
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October Festivities / Redding, CA 10/13-10/14 2017

Mid October Amanda and I took a small vacation up in Redding, CA to enjoy our 4th Halloween together and celebrate her promotion coupled with finding my place at Mesa Rim.  We left on Friday the 13th early in the morning and made the drive by 11AM.  We first stopped at Turtle Bay to see the beautiful sundial bridge above the Sacramento River, walked through public gardens, and saw the animal exhibits.  My favorite animal was probably the Bobcat, Amanda's was the Parrot.  We had a relaxing night at our room and enjoyed the hot tub.  Saturday we woke up casually and ventured out to Shasta Lake and Shasta Dam, we did some shopping, ate at Redding's Ultimate Pizza, then on to the main event, Dreams of Darkness Haunted House!  45Minutes long, and it did not disappoint.  Amanda's favorite part was the simulated crashing elevator scene.  My favorite part was a tie between the swamp area we had to scramble through towards the beginning and the exploratory graveyard areas outside.

Further Exploration / Fort Sage; Doyle, CA 10/3

Early October I made a day trip out to Doyle, CA with my recent go to climbing partner Collin Watters (Mt Rose Lift Ops) of Galena, NV.  The road was in great shape and easy to negotiate, we started the day at the Taylor Bay boulders further South along the circuit.  Temperatures were a little frigid without the sun so we took our time warming up before we found a quality problem we wanted to work.  A V3 sit start by the name of Dabtastic.  I think one of the big joys of bouldering with other people is sharing beta and observing the different solutions different people will use to accomplish the same climb.  Rather than use a coordinated heel hook as Collin did for the start I did a powerful dynamic throw to an ok sloper that I was falling away from, but I got it to work.  Later we drove up to Sail rock and checked out the Forever Young boulder briefly before it began to rain.  On my way through the circuit to the South entrance I noticed free designated campgrounds complete with bathrooms and firepits.  If you're looking for peace and quiet I highly recommend visiting this area.  I snapped a photo of some fire damage from this past summer, it appears that only patches of bushes were burnt and there's no obvious impact to the area or to the climbing upon first glance.

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 6/10 - Size 6/10 - Accessibility 4/10
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Battle w/ the Chimmney / Sugarloaf; Kyburz, CA 9/26/17

Late September Collin Watters (Mt Rose Lift Ops) of Galena, NV and I spent the day at Sugarloaf west down highway 50 towards Placerville.  The approach was pretty arduous but once we were there the psych level was high as seen below.  Our mission for the day was Scheister, 5.7 3 pitches 400FT.  I lead the first pitch which started off smooth until I came to the mandatory vertical flared 30FT runout squeeze chimney; I proceeded to crux out for a good hour before sending it.  Progress was slow for me up that section and I would have to say the crux of the route proved to be much more than I had anticipated leaving me with barely enough energy to build an anchor or stand up.  Naturally I lead the very next pitch, a lieback/handcrack.  The second pitch was our favorite from the day, the climbing was good, everything protected well, no chimneys!  Collin tackled the last pitch but actually ended up off route on Farley, a 5.9+R slab climb up knobs protected by a single bolt towards the bottom.  Route finding is definitely a function of trad climbing that you don't encounter on single pitch sport.  Once at the summit we weren't actually standing anywhere near the down climb and our guide book left us with a set of instructions that effectively amounted to "just go up and then get down".  We were at the base of a broken tunnel of stacked boulders which we crawled through.  We found a traverse on the other side just above a large overhang 400FT up.  We set up a suspect belay and followed the traverse to some class 4 slab that eventually lead to a climbers trail followed by an ocean of sticker bushes and obscenities.  I don't believe Sugarloaf sees much traffic and I walked away with a deeper understanding of myself, squeeze chimneys are not my jam.  You walk up to a climb on the sharp end and you know you're going to do battle to some degree and even after you reach the top you've still got to get down.  I love trad for the mental aspect that accompanies the activity, but this day in particular presented with a few challenges.  Phew!

Personal Review of Area :  Rock/Climb Quality 7/10 - Size 6/10 - Accessibility 5/10

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Raising Money for At Risk Youth, Through Climbing... 9/27/17

This September (27th) Mesa Rim will be participating in a charity event hosted by Big Brothers Big Sisters and the Grand Sierra Resort.  Big Brothers Big Sisters is a National non profit organization helping at risk youth through mentor-ship programs, and next Wednesday the group is rappelling off the GSR to raise funds for the cause.  Several gym members have already donated to the event, as well as locals in the area.  Anyone who recently donated $1000 or more is entitled to a controlled rappel, as well as 5 sponsored Mesa Rim staff.  Mesa Rim will donate whatever funds I am unable to raise between now and the 27th.

Please donate for the future of our at risk youth population by visiting the following address https://amplify.netdonor.net/2761/over-the-edge-2017/13283/kyles-over-the-edge-page .  Children are our future and everyone deserves a fair and equal opportunity at life, particularly those from inadequate impoverished or otherwise unhealthy living situations and social/economical circumstances.  Plus Amanda worked with Big Brothers Big Sister for 3years :-)

Heroic Trad Lead / Lover's Leap; Strawberry CA 9/5/17

Early September I was feeling adventurous so I invited friend and coworker Kenan Hart (Mesa Rim Associate) of Reno, NV to climb the leap.  I've been wanting to climb Corrugation Corner for most of the summer but I hadn't found the right partner and schedule till now.  This was Kenan's first Trad Lead and we couldn't have picked a more stellar climb to break in on.  We left Reno at 6 and made it to the parking lot by 8.  The approach was arduous because we didn't send the Lower Buttress, I'd like to be a little more fit before taking on a 7pitch 600FT+ day.  Once at the base Kenan racked up and sent the first pitch, placements looked good.  The first pitch was 5.6 stemming with a little bit of crack climbing mixed in and a bulge to negotiate, this pitch protects well and is easy to navigate. I caught up with Kenan, shot a quick video and drank some water, racked up, then began the second pitch.  The second pitch starts with 5.6 stemming/crack again for the first 30FT, followed by a juggy traverse onto an exposed 5.7 arette that has lesser protection and ends with a beached whale crux onto the belay ledge.  Each time you feel you've run it out you'll discover a piton, but they blend in with the crack, and you can't discern them from the beginning of the arette.  Kenan took on the last pitch, sending the chimmney with a backpack on, standard practice, then it was onto the 5.7 psychological crux of the day, an exposed traverse above an overhang with no overhead protection.  Kudos to Kenan.  There is a lot of dyke hiking and good pro following the traverse, and just when you crest the top you realize how far you have to hike back to your car.  Why are there no rappel anchors at this location!?  We got food afterwards, talked about life, mostly about climbing, the day was super fun and we were both left feeling pretty accomplished.  We were both in the market for lower grade 5star trad climbing, it's rewarding to finish the day feeling that you and your climbing partner were equal contributors in the fun and the work.

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 10/10 - Size 10/10 - Accessibility 9/10

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Donner Summit Weekend / Donner Lake; Truckee CA 8/19-8/20/17

Mid August I had requested the weekend off for a Renown Employee BBQ which ended up being canceled, the stage was set to go cut my hands for the weekend. Craig Black of Garnerville NV (Level 1 Rope Access Tech), Melanie Letalik of Carson City NV (U.S. Geological Survey Field Technician) and I left Reno early Saturday morning intent on sending at Donner only to be hit by heavy Tahoe traffic due to a mudslide on the 80.  By noon we were getting started on Jr. High at School Rock, my second 5.8 trad lead if I'm not mistaken.  The crux came early in the climb in the form of an awkward poorly protected mantle move up to a good jug.  I felt comfortable the entire climb and I like to think all my practice in the gym is beginning to manifest, I was able to breath slow and not overgrip.  Naturally I used face holds the entire way and all but ignored the crack save for a few foot jams.  Afterwards we just moved our rope to some anchors atop the Nursery School Slab and top roped some easy slab climbs giving Melanie an opportunity to rappel, belay, and all that good stuff.  In the evening we relocated to Snowshed so Craig could get on his project, Aireal, a 5.11 sport arette on the West Face of the wall.  Craig made it 3/4 of the way up but after several lead falls and a really inspiring effort I offered to hike to the anchor and rapp off to clean the route.  That night we camped below Prosser dam via some information we scoped on freecamping.net .  It was an awesome weekend of climbing and really my first time leading outside since starting my new job.  I saw several folks I recognized from the gym throughout the day and I really tried to conduct myself as more of an ambassador for the sport than in the past.  Somehow the sombrero played a part in all that.

Personal Review of Area:  Rock/Climb Quality 9/10 - Size 8/10 - Accessibility 10/10

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Summertime Shennanigans / Greater Tahoe Area Summer 2017

This summer has been busy for me; between training and the grand opening for Mesa Rim, and finding time to spend with family and friends.  We goofed off and saw a parade complete with Mexican Dancing Horses in Virginia City for July 4th, swam down the Reno Kayak Park during flood levels mid July, swimming and scrambling again during our 'relaxing' day at the beach early August, August 5th was the grand opening for Mesa Rim and the gym saw +1500 people in just a few hours, a few days later I did some solo bouldering and exploration out at the Erratica boulders off HWY 88, and mid August we tried to visit the Ballbuster formation off HWY 28 between Incline and Spooner Summit only to get shut down by an act of god mid climb. We haven't had too many dedicated climbing days but we've been getting in the gym much more and making use of our first summer with reliable affordable air conditioned all wheel drive transportation. More to Come!

Pre Employment Thoughts / Mesa Rim Climbing and Fitness Center

Following my work as Manager of Rentals for Granite Chief Ski and Mountain Shop I found myself investing a lot of time applying for alternative managerial positions.  I applied for a position as a supervisor at Sportsman's Warehouse, making about the same I did at Granite Chief.  I applied for a position at the Student Conduct Office for UNR making $60K a yr.  There was a large degree of variety in the options I took into consideration, but few results.  The process was emotionally draining and I began to realize that despite having the degree, despite having managerial experience, despite having a standing ovation of performance and ingenuity from Granite Chief, there was no 'quick' way to get a position of authority, at least not at any cool job I might genuinely be excited for.  I applied for a job at Mesa Rim, not knowing what I should expect.  Now that I've had time to take in more about the company I expect I will grow as an individual at Mesa Rim.  I anticipate that in addition to just climbing more, progressing to grades I haven't touched in many years, I will also develop a greater degree of self awareness and humility, and whether I stay with Mesa Rim or not I plan to take these tools with me wherever I go in life.  Mesa Rim represents a company with a set of ethics and way of both being honest with itself and with the world around it, principles you observe in climbers and in a 'climbing lifestyle'.  This will be my first experience working for an organization that can say as much for itself, so begins the journey.  July 31st here we come!

Exploration / Twin Crags; Tahoe City CA 7/6/17

Early July Amanda and I did a half day hike out at Twin Crags, above Tahoe City and Alpine Meadows (South Side of 89). We were greeted with easy to navigate directions from the Tahoe Locals North Shore Guidebook, and a reasonable trail up through the talus field.  The climbs appear to be polished volcanic rock, vertical, top rope mostly, with an interesting column like feature to them that I haven't seen anywhere else in Tahoe.  I hope to return here this coming fall when the temperatures are a little more forgiving.

Half Day Trad Climbing / Pie Shop; South Lake CA 6/11/17

Early June I had finally gotten confirmation of my employment at the soon to be Mesa Rim Climbing and Fitness Center under construction here in Reno.  After much searching and a little banging my head against the wall I felt like I had found a job I was excited for and that would also challenge me as a person.  I shared the good news with my best climbing partner and we made plans to climb the very next day.  We drove out to Pie Shop arriving around noon.  Surprisingly enough it was snowing in Tahoe in July, raining everywhere else, but given that it was such an exceedingly light and dry snow we were still able to climb.  We jumped on the route Crepes Corner, a 5.7 slabby hand crack that is effectively one pitch, though there is a 5.5 solo to the base of the climbing.  The climb protected very well, the movement felt good, I just wish the rappel bolts had been closer to the top out of the climb to reduce rope drag while giving a follower a belay from the top.  This was a fun lead and I hope to return to Pie Shop possibly this fall to try something a little harder.

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 7/10 - Size 6/10 - Accessibility 6/10
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Weekend 5.11+ Sport Climbing / Juniper Creek Canyon; Bishop CA 4/30/17 (Day II)

After a phenomenal day at the Upper Gorge we returned to camp for victory kabobs over the fire and electrolytes.  I never quite realized it, but my belay gloves are evidently bull wrestling gloves, they're not climbing specific at all, and coincidently they are just the right item for grabbing your skewer by the balls!  Sunday we went to Juniper Creek Canyon, a colder cleaner environment entirely when compared to the Gorge.  Jeremy got the lead on a proud looking 10+ bolted crack climb near the dihedrals area.  In standard fashion Greg jumped a letter grade onto an 11+ face climb with crimpy sidepulls the entire way up.  I pulled down on the route on a top rope but soon found my forearms and biceps in a state of pain.  Later that day Greg lead a recently developed route called Mustache Ride, taking a whipper into the wall near the top.  No injuries to report.  After cleaning this route we called it a weekend, but not before a well-deserved dinner stop at Walker Burger, definitely beta if you are making the home stretch drive from Bishop to Reno.  Because this particular location seemed beyond me I have not done a review of the area, but if you send solid 5.11 this is world class granite in a beautiful setting, see for yourself below.

Weekend 5.11+ Sport Climbing / Owens River Gorge; Bishop CA 4/29/17 (Day I)

Late April I had the exceptional opportunity of joining Greg Cooper (Nursing Student) and Jeremy Fries (Mechanical Engineer), of Reno NV, on a weekend of high-level sport climbing down in Bishop, CA.  We left Reno Friday night and made it to our camp site near Owens River Gorge at about 1030PM amidst 20MPH winds and freezing temps.  Saturday morning our stove proved nonfunctional, and so, without the aid of climbing coffee, we set out for the Upper Gorge.  We hiked into the Gorgeous Towers and arrived at about 10AM warming up on the Gorgeous Arete, a classic 5Star 5.10 climb characterized by good edges, exposure, and good protection.  Greg really lead the charge all weekend, jumping from 5.10 to 5.11+ by 11AM with the route, Nothin But Trouble, a 4Star vertical face climb, crimpy at the bottom, pumpy further up, finish on slab.  Greg and Jeremy climbed and cleaned 3 more 10's/11's before the days end.  Later we visited Cinderella, a 5Star 5.9 stemming climb, 100FT, with really good movement, that was my one lead for the weekend hahha.  On our way out Greg noticed a clean looking 12+ overhanging climb with a sizeable 5FT roof mantle towards the top, while not able to complete the route the effort was very impressive to see.  Day two was spent at Pine Creek Canyon, to follow in the next post.

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 10/10 - Size 10/10 - Accessibility 8/10
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Half Day Sport Climbing / Dinosaur Rock; Carson City NV 4/24/17

Late April Amanda and I choose to do some moderate sport climbing visiting Dinosaur Rock to for the grades and the convenience.  We started on the Dead Man's Rappel which was just as enjoyable as always.  Afterward, we scrambled above the overflowing creek to get to the East Face and climb on The Evolution of Man (5.8).  The crux of this particular route involves a reachy move off a good sidepull at the top of the route.  Easy if you've done it before, but not so easy if your reach is less.  After a safe day out on somewhat chossy granite we got a late lunch with Craig Black and gave him a warm farewell before his move to the bay.

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 5/10 - Size 3/10 - Accessibility 10/10
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Vegas Trip Family and Climbing; Las Vegas NV 4/10-4/13/17

Mid-April I drove to Vegas for a few days to meet Amanda's Family and also to climb.  We got in Monday night after a marathon driving affair with one lone interesting gas station along the way in the town of Beatty.  We were greeted with fresh food and warm hugs.  Tuesday we had plans to visit the Windy Canyon boulders off Highway 160 but the directions appeared inadequate and after a bit of a false start, we went with plan B, the Kraft boulders, which are just outside Red Rocks park.  This collection is easy to find and very concentrated.  Amanda and I warmed up on some 0s followed by a short but fun v2.  This was her first 2, with good holds and a comfortable landing space she was able to get the send.  Later I climbed the line Shady Lady, v2, which felt like a real accomplishment for me because of the height factor on this climb, probably about 25FT.  Our trip was amazing, we saw Bootleg Canyon, visited some natural hot springs in GoldStrike Canyon, had the place all to ourselves, we stayed at the Silverton, I meet too many family folks to remember them all, but I felt very welcomed.  On our way home we drove through Death Valley, 85degrees, by the time we hit Reno it was 30degrees and snowing!

Personal Review of Area :  Rock/Climb Quality 9/10 - Size 4/10 - Accessibility 10/10

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Various Winter Time Outings; Reno / Tahoe Area Winter 2016/2017

Between the months of January and April I found myself with less time to climb, but exceedingly better and better ski conditions.  Amanda and I made a day of Homewood Ski Area which was only her second time skiing.  She is already shredding blues, whether that is deliberate or the result of poor trail markings is secondary.  I also visited the Purgatory boulders finally, North of Fernley and Pyramid Lake.  I can't say much for those rocks, the Hatchet directions left something to be desired, cows and dust all over the place, and you really are out in the middle of nowhere.  At least if I'm to break my ankle and pull some kind of 48hours saw my limb off kind of deal I wanna do it in a cool place like Legoland ;-)  (I helped develop that area).

Found time to also visit the Family Boulders, did an afternoon of rappelling practice with Amanda at Owl Rock and checked out some natural hot springs which ended up being a disappointment, but proved they do exist within the area.

Carson Area Bouldering / Washoe Valley; Carson City NV 1/14/17

By mid January I had managed more ski rentals then exist people crawling upon the face of the earth, so I was ready to take a day away from the industry and go do some climbing.  Amanda and I grabbed our gear and drove out to the Washoe boulders for a fun day out.  The road was thrashed from the consecutive 10year floods, who would have guessed?  Though I have to say, the Subaru passed several actual trucks that had seen enough and choose to huff it on foot the rest of the way to the boulders.  We warmed up on the traverse, then sent the Silver Surfer which is my favorite moderate climb for that location.  I tried the lower moves of the v5 dyno problem with no luck, and then worked through the lower half of Escape from Alcatraz v3 seen below.  Nothing too hard, but better than climbing on plastic any day of the week.

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 5/10 - Size 3/10 - Accessibility 10/10

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