Early September I was feeling adventurous so I invited friend and coworker Kenan Hart (Mesa Rim Associate) of Reno, NV to climb the leap. I've been wanting to climb Corrugation Corner for most of the summer but I hadn't found the right partner and schedule till now. This was Kenan's first Trad Lead and we couldn't have picked a more stellar climb to break in on. We left Reno at 6 and made it to the parking lot by 8. The approach was arduous because we didn't send the Lower Buttress, I'd like to be a little more fit before taking on a 7pitch 600FT+ day. Once at the base Kenan racked up and sent the first pitch, placements looked good. The first pitch was 5.6 stemming with a little bit of crack climbing mixed in and a bulge to negotiate, this pitch protects well and is easy to navigate. I caught up with Kenan, shot a quick video and drank some water, racked up, then began the second pitch. The second pitch starts with 5.6 stemming/crack again for the first 30FT, followed by a juggy traverse onto an exposed 5.7 arette that has lesser protection and ends with a beached whale crux onto the belay ledge. Each time you feel you've run it out you'll discover a piton, but they blend in with the crack, and you can't discern them from the beginning of the arette. Kenan took on the last pitch, sending the chimmney with a backpack on, standard practice, then it was onto the 5.7 psychological crux of the day, an exposed traverse above an overhang with no overhead protection. Kudos to Kenan. There is a lot of dyke hiking and good pro following the traverse, and just when you crest the top you realize how far you have to hike back to your car. Why are there no rappel anchors at this location!? We got food afterwards, talked about life, mostly about climbing, the day was super fun and we were both left feeling pretty accomplished. We were both in the market for lower grade 5star trad climbing, it's rewarding to finish the day feeling that you and your climbing partner were equal contributors in the fun and the work.
Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 10/10 - Size 10/10 - Accessibility 9/10
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