Battle w/ the Chimmney / Sugarloaf; Kyburz, CA 9/26/17

Late September Collin Watters (Mt Rose Lift Ops) of Galena, NV and I spent the day at Sugarloaf west down highway 50 towards Placerville.  The approach was pretty arduous but once we were there the psych level was high as seen below.  Our mission for the day was Scheister, 5.7 3 pitches 400FT.  I lead the first pitch which started off smooth until I came to the mandatory vertical flared 30FT runout squeeze chimney; I proceeded to crux out for a good hour before sending it.  Progress was slow for me up that section and I would have to say the crux of the route proved to be much more than I had anticipated leaving me with barely enough energy to build an anchor or stand up.  Naturally I lead the very next pitch, a lieback/handcrack.  The second pitch was our favorite from the day, the climbing was good, everything protected well, no chimneys!  Collin tackled the last pitch but actually ended up off route on Farley, a 5.9+R slab climb up knobs protected by a single bolt towards the bottom.  Route finding is definitely a function of trad climbing that you don't encounter on single pitch sport.  Once at the summit we weren't actually standing anywhere near the down climb and our guide book left us with a set of instructions that effectively amounted to "just go up and then get down".  We were at the base of a broken tunnel of stacked boulders which we crawled through.  We found a traverse on the other side just above a large overhang 400FT up.  We set up a suspect belay and followed the traverse to some class 4 slab that eventually lead to a climbers trail followed by an ocean of sticker bushes and obscenities.  I don't believe Sugarloaf sees much traffic and I walked away with a deeper understanding of myself, squeeze chimneys are not my jam.  You walk up to a climb on the sharp end and you know you're going to do battle to some degree and even after you reach the top you've still got to get down.  I love trad for the mental aspect that accompanies the activity, but this day in particular presented with a few challenges.  Phew!

Personal Review of Area :  Rock/Climb Quality 7/10 - Size 6/10 - Accessibility 5/10

Public Information : https://tinyurl.com/ybzfz7bv

Approx. Location : https://tinyurl.com/ycr47wja

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Raising Money for At Risk Youth, Through Climbing... 9/27/17

This September (27th) Mesa Rim will be participating in a charity event hosted by Big Brothers Big Sisters and the Grand Sierra Resort.  Big Brothers Big Sisters is a National non profit organization helping at risk youth through mentor-ship programs, and next Wednesday the group is rappelling off the GSR to raise funds for the cause.  Several gym members have already donated to the event, as well as locals in the area.  Anyone who recently donated $1000 or more is entitled to a controlled rappel, as well as 5 sponsored Mesa Rim staff.  Mesa Rim will donate whatever funds I am unable to raise between now and the 27th.

Please donate for the future of our at risk youth population by visiting the following address https://amplify.netdonor.net/2761/over-the-edge-2017/13283/kyles-over-the-edge-page .  Children are our future and everyone deserves a fair and equal opportunity at life, particularly those from inadequate impoverished or otherwise unhealthy living situations and social/economical circumstances.  Plus Amanda worked with Big Brothers Big Sister for 3years :-)

Heroic Trad Lead / Lover's Leap; Strawberry CA 9/5/17

Early September I was feeling adventurous so I invited friend and coworker Kenan Hart (Mesa Rim Associate) of Reno, NV to climb the leap.  I've been wanting to climb Corrugation Corner for most of the summer but I hadn't found the right partner and schedule till now.  This was Kenan's first Trad Lead and we couldn't have picked a more stellar climb to break in on.  We left Reno at 6 and made it to the parking lot by 8.  The approach was arduous because we didn't send the Lower Buttress, I'd like to be a little more fit before taking on a 7pitch 600FT+ day.  Once at the base Kenan racked up and sent the first pitch, placements looked good.  The first pitch was 5.6 stemming with a little bit of crack climbing mixed in and a bulge to negotiate, this pitch protects well and is easy to navigate. I caught up with Kenan, shot a quick video and drank some water, racked up, then began the second pitch.  The second pitch starts with 5.6 stemming/crack again for the first 30FT, followed by a juggy traverse onto an exposed 5.7 arette that has lesser protection and ends with a beached whale crux onto the belay ledge.  Each time you feel you've run it out you'll discover a piton, but they blend in with the crack, and you can't discern them from the beginning of the arette.  Kenan took on the last pitch, sending the chimmney with a backpack on, standard practice, then it was onto the 5.7 psychological crux of the day, an exposed traverse above an overhang with no overhead protection.  Kudos to Kenan.  There is a lot of dyke hiking and good pro following the traverse, and just when you crest the top you realize how far you have to hike back to your car.  Why are there no rappel anchors at this location!?  We got food afterwards, talked about life, mostly about climbing, the day was super fun and we were both left feeling pretty accomplished.  We were both in the market for lower grade 5star trad climbing, it's rewarding to finish the day feeling that you and your climbing partner were equal contributors in the fun and the work.

Personal Review of Area : Rock/Climb Quality 10/10 - Size 10/10 - Accessibility 9/10

Public Information : https://tinyurl.com/ycjf2t5t
Approx. Location : http://tinyurl.com/heluslw
Contact Info @ Bottom of Page